Another iconic variety is Saperavi, the symbol of Georgian unity. It was born in the far west of the country, in the Colchian lowlands, but through waves of internal migration it eventually found its stronghold in the far east—in Kakheti—where it became an aristocrat.

 

Indeed, Saperavi is the monarch of Kakhetian winemaking; other varieties are but its vassals of greater or lesser nobility. The rich, dark color of its berries is unlike that of any other grape in the Kakhetian vineyards. As wine, Saperavi is a deep red, with an alluring aroma and the characteristic gravity of Kakhetian wines. Its beauty is such that it is sometimes blended with other wines simply to enhance their appearance.

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Saperavi is also treasured for its healing properties. Taken in moderation, it is said to benefit arterial health and the cardiovascular system. Perhaps this is why Kakhetians say that only people “with a true heart” deserve to drink Saperavi. And when one has a heart, it sometimes aches; but that pain, they say, Saperavi soothes.